What does Gen-Z want? A Mazda
Plus: Quiet luxury is over and Botox isn't as cool either
Morning,
This letter coming to you from the sunny shores of Milano Marittima. Grilled fish, a spritz, and my daughter and her insatiable need to collect shells are calling my name.
As always, the lens of this letter is a best-of-the-best on culture, trends, marketing, etc. What I’m dropping to friends on Slack or finding useful in meetings with brands.
Let’s dive in!
CULTURE
FOUNDER’S WITH INFLUENCE -> LinkInBio // This week,
discussed influencers hosting casual dinners for brands (versus brands hosting them). What was most interesting was the example of influencer: Ghia founder Melanie Masarin. Masarin, like many founders, has her own Substack, Night Shade. What stands out is her role as an influencer, more than a founder. In fact, she’s less ‘influencer’ and more ‘media’. She’s regularly hosting occasions for brands (Sezane, Rothy’s, and more) that aren’t her own. She has sponsors (Vestaire). Typically, the journey goes fame>media>brand. Now it’s going brand>fame>media.ONLY BY REFERRAL -> Feed Me //
asked the question this week: “Does anyone know why more and more pilates studios are referral only?” I don’t have a great answer but I have noticed referral only being more popular. Whether it’s game shows or event agencies. I’m seeing more ‘by referral only’ everywhere. Scarcity has long been a successful marketing tactic (hence why merch got so popular). If you can’t get it, you want it.STAGED > PRODUCED -> Cassandra Daily // The story of how Robyn DelMonte (@Girlbosstown) pitched a campaign concept on TikTok and got Beis to bite, is a good one. Frankly, that PR angle may be better than the actual campaign which feels slightly overproduced/over the top. BUT the concept was solid and I did love this ‘staged but not produced’ bit with Shay Mitchell (I love that lady). This could have been the whole campaign angle IMO.
CAN DIFFERENTIATION SURVIVE ACQUISITION -> The Hustle // Two very different businesses were acquired this week. Alamo Drafthouse Cinema by Sony Pictures. And Omsom, a small but very mighty Asian pantry goods brand (I’ve written about them a lot), Day Day Cook (a much bigger Asian goods brand). There’s a big similarity between these brands. Both brands made their name by differentiating from their category. Alamo as a restaurant disguised as a movie theatre and Omsom by smartly avoiding every Asian trope and leaning into their 3rd-culture knowledge. But can they maintain their differentiation post-acquisition? Brands frequently struggle. Without the founder’s pure control of the vision, things can get diluted, and with it, all the brand equity they have built. This is a critical time for both of them. I like both a lot, so here’s hoping they pull it off.
Side note: -> As Seen On // In related news, Kylie is trying to buy back her brand from Coty. We’ve written about how Kylie has struggled to stay relevant and keep up with trends under the behemoth bureaucracy of its new owner. Big companies have to figure out timely innovation.
F&B
SMART COOKIES -> Feed Me // The New York Times announced they are partnering with InstaCart to make their recipe ingredient sections instantly shoppable—so clever. As AI (98% sure that’s what’s powering this) gets more powerful, we’ll see more of these types of ‘services’ from brands / media . Book this trip you’re reading about. Order these craft supplies etc. (Pinterest could be very powerful here). But the real question is: can AI figure out how to grocery shop online without 50% of items being ‘unexpectedly out of stock’?
ALPHAS & ZS
MAZDA > CADILLAC -> AfterSchool // When considering what car to have in your next shoot, consider a Mazda. Gen-Z loves them. “A hot car for people in their 20s is a Mazda Miata that you can then modify and have fun with," said Jackson Kessler, a 25-year-old from Natick, Massachusetts, who's a car influencer on TikTok, Instagram and YouTube under the name Captain Crankshaft”. Nissans and Hondas are cool too.
RETAIL
GOLD STAR BEAUTY // Selfridges has revamped its whole beauty department. I was ready for a big visual change but it’s more a services and experiences overhaul. They’ve added a concept store area called Beauty Spot. Refy is the first brand in there, offering custom product-mixing experiences. Selfridges is also making a big push towards product refills. 74 brands stocked in the Beauty Hall offer over 2,500 refill options, with the aim for all brands to incorporate some form of refill option into their counters by 2025. They also have a menu of 10 beauty services, including a Beauty Bag Makeover personal shopping experience and guided tour of the floor. And they’ve introduced “Quiet Wednesdays” for 1 hour weekly aimed towards consumers with additional needs and sensory sensitivities. They also worked with millennial-fave, Sam Youkilis, on a launch campaign.
DIFFERENTIATION ISN'T A LUXURY -> AfterSchool // In a case for brand positioning and not being everything to everyone, “experts say Mytheresa, Ssense and Moda Operandi have kept afloat in a challenged space by honing in on a particular consumer, curating their assortments and executing on retail basics.” “Gen Z for Ssense, top spenders for Mytheresa, and runway watchers for Moda Operandi.” “Our number one goal is, if [our shopper] already knows about a cool brand, they know we will have it first,” said Brigitte Chartrand, Ssense’s vice president of womenswear buying. “‘Of course Ssense has it’s essential to what we do.”
TECH
AI ISN’T AS SMART AS WE THOUGHT // Microsoft Co-Pilot is stepping back from the Recall feature I mentioned recently. Why? Um, because it works by taking screenshots of your computer every 5 seconds and searching those for ‘your recent information’. And unsurprisingly, every person in security and anyone with a right mind knows that that sounds like a bad idea. I’m still ready for Pinterest to roll out the ability for them to find images with a description but we might have to wait.
SPORT
MADE FOR SUCCESS // Kith and Taylor Made launched their second collab. As
points out, in a sea of not-necessary unions, this is a great collab for both brands. Kith gives Taylor Made the design chops it desperately needs to keep up. Taylor Made gives the quality and prestige of a legacy player. Both brands stand to gain good followers and loyalists.WELLNESS
THE PENDULUM IS SWINGING -> AfterSchool // In line with the shift away from high-intensity active ingredient skincare routines. The Cut reported this week that creators are “reversing it all.” They are backing off Botox, filler, IPL, Fraxel, and basically everything else a med spa might throw at you. There’s also a big backing off of laser hair removal. Au natural is back.
TRAVEL
WELL ORCHESTRATED SUMMER TRAVEL -> AfterSchool // 81% of Millennials and Gen-Z are taking summer vacations. And many of them are using travel agents. 38% of Gen Z and Millennials prefer a traditional travel agent over online booking. Honestly, I get it. AI will be great for this but there’s nothing like having been. I've seen a number of people I follow take trips with Elsewhere which uses locals to craft itineraries for you (example). For brands, hospitality and not, I think there’s a big opportunity to offer things through your lens.
FUN FOR THE WEEK
This $50 surprise at the Gucci store is insane—not in a good way
Noah Beck for Tommy Hilfiger (Tommy has been going hard lately)
Adidas Newcastle home kit ad is getting big love for truly understanding local fandom
Maldon salt ice cream
Fun Rhode post
Get this girl is a cool apparel content moment pls
@casey lewis says “Quiet luxury was never going to last.”
My feed is filled with women joining run clubs (not for the running). There’s something to work with here.
Nicole x Hoka—she always delivers
Fun choreography (if you’re ready to go Gap)
Kelly Wearstler on some pieces in her collection 😍
A grown-up version of R29’s money diaries is hitting a nerve
Olaplex is launching skincare and people aren’t ready (and don’t want to be)
Merit cast Grace Coddington in their latest campaign — so good (though I agree with @jessica fino, taming the frizz was not the move)
Chappell Roan is set to be the biggest artist this summer . Her vulnerability and honesty is also hitting a nerve.
Cava is now worth $33 million per restaurant (👏 @rachel karten)
The founder of Prime had Donald Trump on his podcast. It's 10pm, do you know where your children are? PS. His brother just launched a menswear brand that’s definitely targeted at Gen-Z men.
Skims opens 5 permanent locations but everyone is talking about the footballer campaign
The RealReal opened an exhibition of fake bags on Canal Street, but @as seen on says it would have been a genius idea if everyone in the comments section didn't immediately start sharing stories of how they’d gotten fake products from the site—this could have been foreseen.
Love this coffee shop experience. A fun one for an activation for long-term brand engagement (doesn’t have to be a full year)
Midweek, we’re posting a deeper dive into one or two elements of the letter. This week we discussed about non-alc sponsors at the Olympics and the culture shift that represents. Enjoy.
That’s all, folx.
-Chris
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