Retailers need to study toy stores
Plus: YouTube is everyone's desert island pick & 'enhancement' is surging.
Morning,
Greetings from a hot and humid Italy. I’ll be in Chicago in 2 weeks. Please send retail reccs, food spots and anything else must see.
If you only read one thing in this letter I recco: RETAILER SHOULD BE JELLY followed closely by ENHANCEMENT AT EVERY TURN.
As always, the lens of this letter is a best-of-the-best on culture, trends, marketing, etc. What I’m dropping to friends on Slack or finding useful in meetings with brands.
Let’s dive in!
CULTURE
DESERT ISLAND LEARNING // The New Consumer report came out. This issue focuses on Beauty, GPL-1, Smoking/Vaping/Zyn, and YouTube. The piece that shocked me most is that ‘if stuck on a desert island’ most people want YouTube. I know YT is huge but this felt big. This tells us that people want to be entertained and want to learn about niche stuff. Think about that for your content.
THE POINT ISN’T TO GO // This adorable Toteme ‘residency’ (a new fancy term for pop-up?) stopped me in my scroll this week. It got me thinking about the rise of pop-ups you don’t need to go to. Like this Loewe, I’ve shared. It’s not just about inducing FOMO, it’s, to use a popular term right now, for aura boosting. I’m fascinated by how the ROI on pop-ups has changed drastically in the last year.
LAB GROWN HAS GROWING UP // In my mind this trend started with Vrai. The shine might have worn off that brand but it has paved the way for today’s darling, Dorsey. Even Swarovski has jumped into the lab-grown pool. From what I hear, it now makes up 1/3 of their sales. As an aside, Swarovski’s has been really pushing it. It started with their amazing retail overhaul but it’s also showing up with collabs with Skims and more. They also have a pop-up called ‘The Master of Light’ in Milan’s Brera district now and the line for it was wild.
F&B
SOBER NOT SOMBER SPORTS -> AfterSchool // Britain is still nursing its Euros disappointment but one thing they aren’t nursing is a hangover. “While beer sales across UK grocers increased…sales of “nolo” beer skyrocketed by 38%.” This isn’t a sobriety trend, it’s a moderation trend IMO. There’s a bit in the New Consumer report that talks about how people are using Zyn for ‘moderation’ too.
HUNGRY FOR BETTER OPTIONS -> First Rodeo // I’ve mentioned this before but here’s the data to back it up: GLP-1 users are spending. I strongly believe that aspirationally-branded private-label goods could win here if stores took it seriously. A lot of the foods are ‘basics’. Meat, fish, eggs, simple proteins. People aren’t changing where they are shopping, they are changing what they are looking for.
DRUGS
ZYN IS BUYING LOYALTY AND IT’S WORKING // Join Zyn’s loyalty program and you could earn a Dyson Air wrap. Yep. There is nothing new about loyalty programs. People like getting free things. It works. Try it. Example: There are 3 supermarket brands in Zurich (I’m not kidding) when you go to the public pool you can see the power of loyalty points in action. Coop wins with ‘free’ earned summer swag. Migros wins with superior private-label goods. The other wins on price.
ENHANCEMENT AT EVERY TURN-> As Seen On // The Enhanced Games are coming to you soon. Basically, they will be the Olympics but endorsing the use of performance enhancers. “They want to see how far humans can push themselves.” Interestingly, Angermayer, the founder, is also the founder of Atai, a psychedelics company focused on psychiatric applications. Oura rings, NAD+ IV drips, GLP-1, it’s all a signal. People are obsessed with supplements but I suspect we’re about to enter an even more ‘enhanced’ era.
RETAIL
RETAILER SHOULD BE JELLY // Each time Jellycat opens in a new city they come out with limited-edition-themed plushes (Patisseries for Paris, etc) and their commitment to the retail experience is impressive. This store associate should win an Oscar. Is it working? Yes. Interest in Jellycat grew 83% this year and the brand gets 438K search per month . Again, most people will never go to some of these stores and it doesn’t matter.
BURBERRY’S DAMP EARNINGS // Burberry’s new CEO announcement didn’t help their slumping stock. Their rebrand isn’t the issue. Accessible prices aren’t the issue (I’ve written extensively about how luxury is working around this). It’s that that you have zero clue who this brand is for. It’s untethered. It needs a stronger POV on its audience and a dive deeper into its British roots.
I VERY BADLY NEED TO TALK TO VERA BRADLEY // Vera Bradley ‘relaunched’ on this week and I’m worried. This brand could be HUGE. But not like this. First, what is this bio line: “Inspiring the joyful dance through life with equal parts grace and grit.” Second, the new logo—what happened? Third, while Zooey Deschanel is lovely, but this is the most conservative choice imaginable. Finally, this brand is was hopelessly romantic. In the age of Sam Youkilis-ing of everything, how on earth did we land here?
LILLY DID A LITTLE BETTER // It’s a big week for nostalgic, floral-focused brands. Lilly Pulitzer also rebranded. It’s giving Barbie which maybe for the audience works? There’s a lot of potential in this brand, with better styling and art direction it could go in a great direction. I’m late to the party on this but this Moke collab is adorable.
OLD CLASSICS, NEW OWNERS -> As Seen On // The Limited Too is back, and being sold at Kohl’s. Authentic Brands bought Champion. Brands are being gobbled up and rebooted left right and center. We visited Champion’s store in Milan recently and it was not good. It is such a great brand (I love their collabs with Percival) hopefully some of these turnarounds involve a retail rethink.
TECH
AI IS CHANGING THE AD GAME // Someone wrote to me recently asking that I write more about AI. This presentation by Emmett Shine (now at Pattern but formerly Gin Lane if you remember them before the big pivot) is good.
SPORT
SPONSORSHIP SWITCH UP -> As Seen On // Athletes are going indie. I told you about Bandit’s approach, but it’s not just them. Athletes are looking beyond the big players and going for smaller brands that offer them equity—an opportunity if you can swing it. Nike and Adidas might be backing down but not all big brands aren’t playing hardball. This week New Balance officially partner of the WNBA, signing a multiyear deal with the league. I can see this working.
WELLNESS
1/8TH OF SUITCASES ARE FILLED WTH SUPPLEMENTS //
had an interview with Michael Preysman in a recent letter. Preysman launched Everlane 10+ years ago, and this week launched a magnesium brand called Magna. Most compelling though was Emily’s observation that 1/8 of her friend’s bags are given up to supplements. I have observed this too. A good insight for a luggage company. Also an opportunity for good swag. I can’t tell you how many supplement cases spill (even the locking ones).TRAVEL
EXPERIMENTAL INVESTMENTS -> As Seen On // Christian Louboutin has has invested in Experimental Group, a French operator of upscale boutique hotels, cocktail bars, restaurants, and beach clubs in Europe. This group does a great job of ‘chill aspirational’. And are growing. A group that does this kind of scale/price-point/style but for spa hotels would be huge.
WE’RE GOING INTERNATIONAL // I don’t think this stat will surprise anyone who is on social media, international travel is at an all-time high.
FUN FOR THE WEEK
This is hysterical. This couple is so funny. Worth working with.
Clare V. x The Carlyle Hotel—this hotel is really having a moment. Jen Kaplan told me it’s because Instagram does a buyout during the Met.
“The Dealership” is a TikTok-show sensation.
No idea what this is for but I want to be there.
It’s Disability Awareness Month. A few fun follows:
Lilac Perez (while Lilac isn’t disabled, she’s an amazing casting director who advocates hard for diversity)
Ghia made a tradeshow look atmospheric
This Olympics is going to unlock a lot of ‘alternative sports’ athletes. With fencing at the Grand Palais this year, it will be ALL over your feeds.
Goodness me the size of this digital billboard on the face of the Pompidou.
Daniel Craig for Loewe fall.
Bob Iger and his wife gained control of LA’s Angel City FC making it the world’s most valuable women’s sports team.
Tee cropping stations are huge at high-end activities at bar/bat mitzvahs—take notes for your events.
This walk-in-refrigerator cocktail ingredient moment at The Bear x American Express activation is a cute.
Why do I feel like this could be huge?
Homecourt launched a body care line. Someone smart (can’t remember who) said they were pulling a Flamingo Estate and coming for the ‘whole home’.
What it costs to get your brand into an Erewhon smoothie:
That’s all, folx.
-Chris
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